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Before hanging the door, cut out the slot for the letter box, which is usually positioned in the middle cross rail. Drill holes at the four corners, then remove the waste by cutting from one hole to the next, using a padsaw or powered jigsaw. Trim the corners square with a chisel. You will need three 100mm (4") butt hinges for an exterior door - one positioned about 225mm (9") from the top, one about 300mm (1') from the bottom, and one in the middle. Use solid brass hinges for a door finished with clear varnish. If possible, use the existing hinge recesses cut in the door frame, trimming them to fit the new hinges if necessary. Hold the door in the frame with packing at the bottom of the door for correct positioning and mark the hinge positions on the door, using the recesses as a guide. Remove the door and place each hinge on the edge of the door, level with the marks, and draw around it. The depth of each hinge recess should match the thickness of one hinge leaf. Use a marking gauge to score the depth of each recess on the inside face of the door. Cut around the perimeter of the marked recess, with a chisel held vertically, then make a series of cuts across the recess. Pare the recess down to the line with the chisel held flat. Put each hinge in place. Drill pilot holes for the screws. Hold each hinge in place temporarily with one screw. Now stand the door upright in the open position, with the hinges flapped open against the frame. Put packing under the door until the hinges fit the existing recesses, or cut around the hinges to mark new recesses on the door frame. Screw the door to the frame, using one screw in each hinge, and check to see that the door can close properly. If the hinge recesses are not deep enough, the door may catch against the closing edge - remove the hinges and pare out the recesses. If the recesses are too deep, they prevent the hinges closing, and the door will spring open - pack thin card underneath each hinge until the leaf is flush with the wood.
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